Brooklyn Designer Edvin Thompson Is Creating A Dress Code For Trailblazers
Edvin Thompson
Brooklyn, New York
10/24/19
Following the debut of his SS20 collection, we talk with Edvin Thompson, creative director of Brooklyn based clothing brand Theophilio about his experience as a young designer, his Jamaican roots, and his love affair with all things loud and flashy
You just showed your Spring/Summer 2020 collection last weekend. Congrats again! How was that experience?
It was very gratifying. Definitely fulfilling. I felt complete in the sense that I knew where I was going as a designer. I felt very secure in what I was doing. There was a lot of intention behind this collection versus my past collections which I feel were not necessarily trial runs but moreso me understanding myself and how to navigate in an industry that’s not built off of authentic artists like myself, I personally think. But I’m still on a high because it was only a few days ago. The day after the show I jumped right back into work because I have to keep things going.
Your work is autobiographical at its core. What phase of your life were you capturing with this collection?
I would say leaving home. I moved out my parents’ house when I was 20 years old in Atlanta Georgia. That was right after high school. There was a lot of friction in regard to my sexuality and the clothes that I would wear so it was causing arguments in the house and I really wanted to get away from that. At the time I was thinking I should leave home so my parents could process who I am and who I was becoming because our arguing was very redundant conversation.
Even with my clothes when I was leaving my parents’ home going to friend’s parties, school and things like that I was always loud and very expressive with my clothes. You could tell by the garments I had on that I carried myself a certain type of way or the message I was sending versus me actually speaking. You know when you step into a room you don’t have to say anything but how you look is loud enough and I think that’s how my parents perceived me. My dad would always say “You’re like a light. You’re very visible to the world.” and that stuck with me for a very long time and I wanted to show that in this collection. It’s about power and identity and really believing in yourself and pushing yourself no matter who may feel dismayed about that. That was the narrative I was trying to push.
What attracts you to using loud colors and fabrics in your designs?
My upbringing. I come from Jamaica and we have a lot of celebratory events. Folks always want to have on the best outfits to cause a stir. Going back to the dancehall scene or even when we celebrate death folks will put on their best outfits and showcase how liberated they are. I think bright colors really intensify your liberation. They push that message and intention.
While you do have a strong community of supporters who are dedicated to helping you realize your dreams, you pretty much direct the brand solo. How are you able to do this successfully?
I work with a lot of friends that I call trailblazers. I love celebrating my friends even if they’re not designers like myself. If you’re a model, if you love set design, photography or videography find people who work with you and build that team. You really want your friends to nurture your craft and vice versa and I think that’s the best way I went about this because everyone put their heart into it. Everyone really enjoyed their own area of what they brought to the table. Like the models, they loved what they did and I love designing so I put that together and we created magic. Find people who are honest about their craft, how they want to assist you, and where they want to go. Not just latching on to you for clout or to party or parlay. Find people that really want to go to the nitty gritty, be up late with you at night. Find folks that want to get on the train for an hour and a half just to help out. It’s all about generosity. It’s very hard to find and I feel like people should nurture that and the people they have around them.
Who do you make your clothing for?
I make my clothing for trailblazers. I adhere to both women and men who stand up for what they believe in, who want to set the tone for the community they believe in, who want to be heard, who want to start a dialogue. Folks that are against society’s beliefs and definitions of people, that’s who I design clothes for.
Any particular people you’d say are representative of the Theophilio brand?
Thinking thinking thinking...I’m definitely a huge fan of Rihanna but bringing it down to myself I would say Alton Mason. He’s a really good friend of mine and he has a Jamaican background also. I love what he’s standing for as a young model and how he’s navigating the industry right now. Some of my young peers also. Ibrahim (Kamara), editor of i-D. Edmond, Christian Cody, my best friend Barrington. Being from Jamaica, all these people from vibrant cultural backgrounds I feel have a lot to say and me clothing them is a vessel or I’m on the ship with them, their own ship. I believe that and I believe those people can carry the message of my brand.
Do you have any thoughts on this time in fashion where black designers are coming into the spotlight?
Be true, be consistent. Be true to your blackness and do not sell out. I love Kerby and what he said about how he was one of the 500 at the BOF and the reason he was offended by the set up that they had. I would be offended as well because I don't want to be used as a token. I think that’s beautiful to sit in your right as a designer. I’ve always said “ride your own dick” . Ride your own wave but still be inclusive. His last show was very dope, very black. It was about his own community and knowing who really celebrates along with him. I think it’s dope that other black designers are doing that also but it’s still diverse. They’re not saying “just black”, they’re still very open.
You should always be consistent in lifting up your community and don’t let it be a one season thing. It should be consistent because that’s the foundation of who you are as a designer and your customer base as well.
How do you think these designers can stay consistent while still remaining fresh and new?
Black is always fresh. I believe I can release the same collection at a different venue and it will be just as punctual and people will receive the message in a better way. I can elevate my last four collections and create a whole production and people will feel the same way about it. It would be like “Oh my god this is so nostalgic! I feel so good seeing this again!”
Just be consistent because black is not boring. We’re magical beings. What we share with the world, the universe loves that. Don’t ever think what you’re putting out is dull. If you’re an artist and you have a staple and a community around your brand that rides for you whatever you put out after that is gonna be dope. Just be genuine and authentic in what you’re sharing. I think that makes things new and fresh. You have to look at the message you’re trying to deliver and the clothes will fall in line with that and relieve the process. It was no issue for me to get clothes made.I always want to make sure what I deliver is intentional and executed properly. I think with this collection it’s very clear. I feel like with other collections I was still getting my feet wet. With this one I’m feeling myself. I did that and it’s coming from a real place. Even going back to my Instagram posts I’ll scroll back and read them thinking “I really did that and felt like that”. Once you have the story, the clothes will follow suit. I think that’s how a lot of current designers have stayed fresh.
Is there a peak moment for your brand that you look forward to or where you’d feel you’ve “made it”?
There are still things that I really want to set out. I think I’ll know I’ve made it when I’m up there collecting revenue. When I’m not working at Red Lobster anymore and just selling my clothes. I think that’s when I’m like “Okay, I’m really doing things”. Right now it’s about press and promotion and people love what I have going on but I do have to collect money because I want to have a life out of this and leave my job. That will be a moment and I think that moment’s coming very soon for sure. One of my biggest goals was to be recognized by the CFDA and I’m so blessed to be having a meeting with them soon so I’m looking forward to that.
What’s next for Theophilio?
My film, I have to put that out. I’m not putting pressure on myself because like I said, with intention things do happen in time. I was pressuring myself before thinking “I have to get this out. I’ve been promoting this for some time now.” but I feel dedicated to this project and I definitely owe it that time to nurture it until it's ready to come out. My store will be up soon. I’m going to be doing my first ever Fall/Winter collection. Look out for that early next year. The lookbook will be out soon along with a lot of other projects. Press, press, press we coming!
2020 is really going to be a turning point.